To paraphrase, "I went to a place whose people do not want to be visited by tourists; they have opted not to develop any tourist-focused amenities, and they've enacted policies which discourage tourists from visiting, which made my visit as a tourist boring and inconvenient. I can't imagine why they did that!"
The article leaves me far more puzzled by the author's mindset than that of the Ålanders.
The article leaves me far more puzzled by the author's mindset than that of the Ålanders.